"We want to be as good as the others"
Valentin Sträuli has been running the latest "Igniv by Andreas Caminada" in Andermatt together with his girlfriend and host Hannah van den Nieuwenhuizen since December 2024. He brings the sharing concept to the mountain village with a generous dash of spiciness.
In the kitchen of the Igniv restaurant in Andermatt stands a green-painted wooden box. It says in orange letters: "Motivation box.. From Mammertsberg with love.” The box was once filled to the brim with gummy bears, sour tongue sweets and good wishes from Silvio Germann and his team. The contents are going down a treat and seem to be having an effect. Head chef Valentin Sträuli, 28, and his crew started out highly motivated in Andermatt in December, and now he is taking stock for the first time: “We have settled in very well here. It was a bit stressful and we had long days and short nights, but we've found a routine," says Sträuli. What helps: Valentin Sträuli runs "Igniv by Andreas Caminada" together with his girlfriend and hostess, Hannah van den Nieuwenhuizen, 29.
The "branch" in Andermatt is the fourth "Igniv", alongside Bad Ragaz, Zurich and Bangkok. Here, too, guests are offered a sharing concept. Valentin Sträuli arranges the snacks with exceptional precision. That was already important to him as a child. "If my Nutella sandwich wasn't spread right up to the edge, I wouldn't eat it", he says, laughing. Valentin grew up in Zurich, where his father ran the Mexican restaurant Poco Loco near the Letzigrund. "I always helped out, which is why I became interested in food from an early age." But that didn't make him want to become a chef.
Valentin takes the entrance exam for high school, but leaves during the trial period. This is followed by an apprenticeship as a structural draftsman. He gives that up as well. "I realized that I didn't want to sit at a desk. I knew that I needed to work with my hands." That was when he got the idea of becoming a chef. To be absolutely sure, he did an internship at the legendary Kronenhalle. “There were all these chefs in their white jackets and toques, it was noisy, and everyone was shouting at each other. I fell in love with this profession on day one," Sträuli recalls of that time. "A chef flambéed beef stroganoff and juggled what felt like 13 pans at once. I wanted to be able to do that too." He completed his apprenticeship at La Salle in Zurich, “That's where I learnt the basics from the ground up. That’s important, you can build on that afterwards.”
Even during his apprenticeship, Sträuli already had his sights set on haute cuisine, but getting a foot in the door is no mean feat. "I applied to Antonio Colaianni about seven times, but never heard back. Suddenly he got back to me after all and said, "The interview's tomorrow, and work starts the day after!" Sträuli stays with the Italian until the closure of the "Gustav” restaurant. “He was unable to offer me a position after that. So he called Andreas Caminada and said to him, I've got someone for you, you have to take him.”
That's how Valentin Sträuli ends up in the talent factory of the 19-point chef. In 2020, Caminada opens a new "Igniv" in Zurich. Sträuli cooks alongside Daniel Zeindlhofer. For four years. It was also there that he met his girlfriend Hannah. Later he moves to the Schloss. “That time was one of the best of my life when it comes to cooking techniques. It's simply the most wonderful restaurant in the world. There's so much going on, but everyone is pulling together. Everyone’s important and appreciated.” When Valentin talks, it's immediately clear how at ease he feels in the Caminada universe. "It's simply one big family. There's such a strong sense of togetherness, even with the other restaurants." Top dogs are nowhere to be found. Elbowing your way through is not necessary.
When it became clear that Andreas Caminada would be opening a new "Igniv" in Andermatt, speculation began as to who would become the new chef de cuisine. “I didn't expect it would be me. I was only 27 and had never had a head chef position before.” But Andreas Caminada thinks Valentin is ready. "I didn't think about it for long and agreed." Andreas was also given a chance when he was so young. Now he passes that on to other young chefs."
The boss outlines the general direction in his "Ignivs", determines the interior design and which crockery is used. "The restaurants are meant to have the Igniv DNA, but guests should always be able to tell whether they're dining with Joel Ellenberger in Bad Ragaz, Daniel Zeindlhofer in Zurich or with us," explains Sträuli. Within these guidelines, he is relatively free to design his menu. "Of course, it takes a while until you find your own signature style." One thing that can definitely already be seen as a recurring feature is the playful use of spice. The Hamachi taco with pickled myoga (Japanese ginger) has a subtle kick, and the langoustine with chilli, tomatoes and fennel atop a dashi cream really packs a punch. “I've loved spicy food since I was a child, thanks to my father's cooking. I think these days I'm pretty daring when it comes to spice."
«We know what we are doing and what we are cooking. But consistency is also needed. And that can only be achieved over time.
So far, the "Igniv" in Andermatt has not been awarded any points or stars. That is likely to change in autumn. The other two "Ignivs" in Switzerland are playing in the top league. GaultMillau awards 17 points, while the Michelin Guide gives two stars. "Of course, it does create a certain amount of pressure, but that's pressure I put on myself. Because I want to be just as good as the others," says Valentin Sträuli. And at the same time he knows that the other "Igniv" chefs didn't manage it overnight either. "We know what we are doing and what we are cooking. But consistency is also needed. And that can only be achieved over time."
Text: Kathia Baltisberger, Photos: Olivia Pulver, Date: 01.07.2025
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