Perfection is the benchmark
Lenzburg is not necessarily known as a foodie location. Yet Kevin Romes, head chef at «Skin's», is bringing points and stars to the town. The German will settle for nothing less than perfection – and effortlessly bridges the gap between lunch offerings and fine dining.
Kevin Romes and his team at «Skin's» in Lenzburg have committed to nothing less than perfection. And it is evident, particularly in the details. Cutlery and glasses on the tables are precisely measured, the edge of the napkin aligns with the cutlery rest. And, of course, in the kitchen, food is meticulously plated with tweezers. The restaurant’s location in the same building as Skinmed, a clinic for plastic surgery, is no coincidence. The restaurant is part of the clinic.
Aesthetics also play a pivotal role at «Skin's». For the «Borscht», the «Skin's» team is more than happy to spend an hour at the pass-through window, meticulously arranging the beetroot rounds on the quenelle of pumpernickel, smoked eel, and horseradish. Borscht is a traditional Eastern European dish. «We serve the beetroot, not as a stew, but in a modern version,» explains Kevin Romes. The deep red quenelle with a scale-like appearance encapsulates the restaurant's concept rather well.
When he was a child, it was not clear Kevin Romes would one day become a chef with a penchant for perfection. «I come from a car-crazy family,» comments the son of a motor vehicle mechanic. Yet it was his mother's Tuscan meatballs that kindled his love for food. «That was kind of the benchmark in our home in the Rhineland. Everyone loved those meatballs,» the 33-year-old recalls. Romes completed his apprenticeship at a Dorint hotel, known for its homestyle cooking and numerous banquets. «It quickly became apparent to me that I wanted to focus on à la carte, because you can pay much more attention to detail than with 800 meals.» After completing his apprenticeship, Romes embarked on his journeyman years. «I've always been enamoured with haute cuisine. But without any points of contact, it can seem a bit daunting,» he says. Yet at Johann Lafer's Stromburg, the spark ignited. «From that moment on, I wanted to learn only from the best and sought out chefs who were the right fit for me.»
I've always been enamoured with haute cuisine. But without any points of contact, it can seem a bit daunting.
Romes has worked with Christian Jürgens at Tegernsee, with Dieter Koschina at the «Vila Joya» in Albufeira, with Sebastian Zier and Moses Ceylan at the «Einstein» in St. Gallen, and with Chris Rainer at «Schloss Elmau» in Krün. He has taken away something different from each chef. «Christian Jürgens exemplified perfection, while Chris Rainer taught me how to handle crustaceans. Moses Ceylan possesses incredible specialist knowledge, and Sebastian Zier is exceptionally strong in team leadership.»
The proposal for the restaurant «Skin's» came personally from Dr Felix Bertram – dermatologist and founder of the Skincare Clinic. «Initially, this was to become a staff restaurant. I wasn't entirely convinced by that because it didn't align with what I wanted to do.» Sometime later, Romes received a compromise proposal. At lunchtime, there should be meals for staff and external guests, while in the evening, the chef can go to town. «Preparing something simple like a goulash for lunch keeps the mind fresh and ensures you don't forget the basics,» says Romes.
In the evening, the «Skin's» team pulls out all the stops. Classic French cuisine is the foundation, but the influences come from all over the world. Romes douses the sea bass with hot fat, causing the fish's scales to stand up and become crispy. It is served with violet curry herb and an Asian broth. The main course features a tender saddle of venison enveloped in a mushroom crust. The dish is garnished with a grilled persimmon and a BBQ aubergine. Patissier Severin Beesten is responsible for the dessert. He presents the guests with elements of the forest: porcini mousse, spruce sorbet, wild blueberries and moss.
The kitchen on the former Hero site caused a sensation shortly after opening. The Michelin Guide awarded «Skin's» two stars straight away – a rarity in Switzerland. «We didn't expect that at all. We'd only been open for four months and had no idea if we'd make it into a guide in time. But of course, we were hoping to get a star,» said the German. In the end, there were two. «Skin's» also scores in the GaultMillau ranking. It started off with 15 points and has been steadily climbing every year. «Gaining one more point each year is also quite extraordinary,» Romes is delighted with the feedback from the testers. But, «Such awards also result in much higher expectations.»
To meet expectations, above all, one thing above all is required: team spirit. «The team comes first for me. What we achieve here can only be accomplished as a team. My staff come to work every day completely motivated. We're all pulling in the same direction, which makes my job easier and allows me to be more creative.»
Text: Kathia Baltisberger, Photos: Olivia Pulver, Date: 09.01.2025
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