Katrin Wagenblast
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Katrin Wagenblast

«I put pressure on myself»

She is the Executive Pastry Chef at The Dolder Grand in Zurich. Yet Katrin Wagenblast originally trained in savoury cooking. But through hard work, diligence and a great deal of passion, she has made it to the very top of the pâtisserie world.

By the time midday arrives, guests at the Dolder Grand are licking their lips in anticipation. This is when Katrin Wagenblast fills the display cabinet in the lobby with fresh creations: from tartlets, macarons and slices of cake to éclairs, mousse and chocolates. Since March 2024, Wagenblast has been the Executive Pastry Chef at the Swiss Deluxe Hotel in Zurich. The young German is not only responsible for the display of sweet treats. In winter, she serves afternoon tea to guests, while every Sunday, she stocks the brunch buffet with sweet delights, and she also creates the desserts on the Saltz restaurant menu.

It wasn't always clear that Wagenblast would feel so at home in the world of desserts. Her parents run a butcher's shop near Heilbronn, a family business in its seventh generation. They source the meat from farmers in the surrounding villages. "This taught me to appreciate food from an early age. That's why I have a completely different attitude towards food waste," says Wagenblast. But she didn't dream of becoming a butcher, and was more interested in becoming a chef. She completed her training as a chef at the Audi factory visitor restaurant. After her training, she moved to Switzerland for the first time. She cooked under Martin Göschel at the Hotel Paradies in Ftan. "That's when I first realized that I had somehow fallen for pâtisserie. The elaborate work and precision involved in pâtisserie captivated me from the outset," recalls the 31-year-old. This later blossomed into a great passion.

However, Wagenblast first moved to New York, where she was hired as a chef at Daniel Humm's Hotel Nomad. "I asked if I could switch to pâtisserie. But I wasn't allowed, because I didn't have the training. The Americans are much stricter in this regard." Back in Switzerland, she noticed that there were chefs willing to give her a chance. "I applied for a job with Rolf Fliegauf in Ascona. He knows a lot about pâtisserie himself and really guided me through it." After another stint in New York and a foray into savoury cooking, Wagenblast finally decided that she only wanted to work as a pastry chef. So she headed to the Bürgenstock Resort to work with Damian Carini (Pâtissier of the Year 2024). "Back then, I thought I knew a thing or two about pâtisserie. But I didn't have a clue. With Damian, I learnt the craft completely from scratch." Wagenblast got stuck in, handling everything from simple desserts and the legendary Easter brunch to the à-la-carte desserts at the Oak and Spices restaurants. She worked her way up to become Damian Carini's right-hand woman.

In the beginning, I was really nervous and there was a lot of pressure. I thought to myself, I'm showing up here as a complete nobody. Yet over time, I realized that I was putting this pressure on myself. That has calmed down now.

Katrin Wagenblast

After four years on the Bürgenstock, Wagenblast had gained considerable pâtisserie expertise and was ready for a new challenge. This awaited her at the Dolder in Zurich, where she had some big shoes to fill. Her predecessors include Christian Hümbs (known for the TV show "Das grosse Backen") and Andy Vorbusch (from the Mandarin Oriental restaurant). "In the beginning, I was really nervous and there was a lot of pressure. I thought to myself, I'm showing up here as a complete nobody. Yet over time, I realized that I was putting this pressure on myself. That has calmed down now," says Wagenblast. In the year since, she has been able to put her own stamp on the pâtisserie. "I like light desserts that have a certain tartness." Currently, at Saltz, there is a dessert on the menu that features caramelized figs, fig compote, pecan crumble and pecan ice cream.

Wagenblast decides which desserts make it onto the menu or into the display cabinet, even though Heiko Nieder, Culinary Director at the Dolder, is her superior. "Working with Heiko is fantastic. He largely gives me free rein, but he also provides feedback or tips on my creations." She also finds it important to support her own team. "Everyone is encouraged to get involved, to show us what they can do. If the dessert is good, it goes on the menu."

Wagenblast combines classic French patisserie with modern techniques, giving each creation a unique twist. She prepares the Paris-Brest with coffee instead of hazelnuts, and the lemon tartlet exudes a hint of rosemary. To finish off, she decorates a kind of "piña colada" for the display cabinet. The coconut shell is made of chocolate and contains a coconut and lime mousse, a pineapple creme and a sphere of pineapple compote. Of course, the "straw" is essential – which is not made of plastic, but of a more sustainable material: chocolate.

Text: Kathia Baltisberger, Photos: Olivia Pulver, Date: 12.02.2025

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