No other Swiss hotel has created such a stir in 2024 as the Mandarin Oriental Savoy in Zurich. GaultMillau named the hotel on Paradeplatz as its “Hotel of the Year”, and numerous celebrities passed through its doors: Michelle Hunziker, Heidi Klum and the Kaulitz brothers have stayed at the MO, and while superstar Taylor Swift resided at the Bürgenstock Resort, her crew were accommodated at the Mandarin Oriental. And almost incidentally, a young chef has been doing an outstanding job. Dario Moresco is the head chef at the “Orsini”, the Mandarin Oriental's Italian restaurant. Its guests soon realized that this is the place to be. And the critics also recognized a talented chef at work. The GaultMillau guide awarded the Orsini a rating of 16 points from the outset, which was closely followed by a Michelin star. “We're really proud of this, as we’ve put a great deal of work into this achievement”, Moresco says.
Dario has absolutely no intention of resting on these first laurels. “I want to keep developing and improve every day.” Although Dario is the head chef at the Orsini, he still has a “big boss” to back him up. Including the “Orsini”, Antonio Guida manages three restaurants simultaneously. The “Seta” in Milan with two stars, and the “Talea” in the Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi. However, he mostly gives his protégé in Zurich free rein. “Antonio comes by about once a month. My sous-chef Gianmarco D’Alonzo and I create the dishes, but Antonio tries them and gives us tips”, the 31-year-old chef adds. And otherwise, Antonio is always there when Dario needs him. “We actually speak on the phone almost every day.”
This is not the first time that Guida and Moresco have worked together. Between 2017 and 2022 Moresco worked in the 2-star chef’s team in Milan, initially as a saucier, then as sous-chef. Dario then moved on, but it wasn’t long before Guida got in touch again. “He called me and said he had a really cool project for me, and that’s how I ended up at the Orsini.”
As a small boy I spent a lot of time in the kitchen with my grandma Maria
Although Antonio Guida is Dario’s mentor, he gets his passion for good food from somebody else. “As a small boy I spent a lot of time in the kitchen with my grandma Maria”, Moresco explains. “It was like playing for us. But we also learned so much about food and good products.” Gnocchi was grandma Maria’s signature dish, but there was often also bottoni pasta with wild rabbit. “That’s one of the dishes that reminds me of my childhood”, says Moresco. Bottoni can also be found at the Orsini – also with wild rabbit, but not exactly according to his grandmother’s recipe. Dario Moresco dehydrates and ferments carrots for his version, and uses nettles for the green sauce.
His connection to his home country is extremely important to Dario. He grew up in Genoa with the sea on his doorstep. “I love using food from the sea. I source Norwegian scallops from Dubno, and Bianchi supplies me with swordfish and squid.” The chef uses the latter in his signature dish: spaghetto with smoked squid, preserved lemons and collatura di alici – an Italian seasoning sauce made from salt and anchovies. The scallops are served warm with buffalo mozzarella crème, marinated lemons and oyster sauce.
One of the highlights on the Orsini menu is the quails supplied by the Miéral family. Dario has worked at Georges Blanc in Vonnas and is therefore very familiar with Miéral products. He serves the small birds in several courses. However, Dario is currently looking forward to game season. “My brother and father are both hunters”, he says to explain his fascination. But he sources venison from Bianchi, which obtains its game directly from the hunters. Dario gets fresh inspiration for new dishes on Tuesdays and Fridays. “That’s when the weekly market at Bürkliplatz is held. We don't buy directly from there for the hotel, but it’s the best place to find new products.” And it's only a few hundred metres away from the kitchen.
Text: Kathia Baltisberger, Photos: Olivia Pulver, Date: 11.11.2024
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