Cooking is in his DNA
"Trübli" is currently the best restaurant in Winterthur. Alexander Bindig is in charge here, both in the kitchen and when it comes to serving guests. He operates in the background as well as on the front line. This is possible because he trusts his team blindly.
Alexander Bindig is preparing the pre-dessert, a raspberry and basil sorbet with yoghurt espuma and a honey and raspberry wafer. "Do you like that? Or would you have done it differently?", Bindig asks his head chef, Nicolai Pfister. Bindig is the executive chef and calls the shots at the "Trübli" in Winterthur. That doesn't stop him from asking his colleague's opinion. The concept of a chef and an executive chef is more common in hotel catering. It is unusual in small restaurants. "I don't really care about job titles. I just want to give Nici the respect he deserves."
The "Trübli" is steeped in history. This is evident right from the front door, which requires considerable strength to open. The restaurant first opened in 1785. The bar still looks as though it is from another era, while the restaurant area is bright and modern. The tables are laid with white tablecloths, which don't look at all staid. Alexander Bindig has been running the establishment since 2019. The "Trübli" is the best restaurant in the city. Two years ago, it got into the GaultMillau with 15 points. "We were extremely flattered. We put a lot of work into it. It's fantastic that our efforts are appreciated officially," says Bindig.
Diners at the "Trübli" are not spoilt for choice. "We simply serve a menu," explains Bindig. Vegetarians and guests with intolerances are of course taken into consideration. The concept is a hit with the guests. "In the beginning, some people said it wouldn't work. Not in Winterthur. That we could file for bankruptcy in a few months. But we're still here." Bindig is responsible for the menu. "I set the direction. The team discusses the whole thing and we come up with a common denominator. Sometimes we do things the other way around. I have a wine that I would like to serve, and then look for a dish that goes with it." This was the case, for example, with the Trübli sparkling wine, an in-house bottling by a winemaker from the Rheingau region. It is currently served with organic salmon braised at 36 degrees accompanied by cucumber, peanuts, carrot puree and curry foam.
It was clear from an early age that Alexander Bindig would one day become a chef. "Since I was nine years old, I dreamt of becoming a chef, just as other people dream of becoming firefighters. When it came to finding an apprenticeship, there was no other option for me. Right from the outset, I found the atmosphere in a kitchen cool." Bindig completed his apprenticeship at the "National" in Winterthur with Hansruedi Bosshard. "He was the gastronomy expert in Winterthur. He was very demanding. But if you delivered, you really had a great life," Bindig recalls. From there, he went to the "Alpina" in Klosters. At the tender age of 21, Bindig became the sous-chef at the "Conti" behind the opera house in Zurich. Bindig then headed back to the city on the Eulach, first to the "Bunter Hund" and later he took over the "Trübli".
The current surprise menu includes a course of yellowtail amberjack with chorizo, garlic cream, tomato chutney and gazpacho. A dish bursting with flavour that still comes across as light and summery. For dessert, there are Thurgau strawberries with ruby chocolate, sponge cake and champagne and strawberry sorbet. The dishes are served by the chef himself. "I am always in the kitchen during the day, in the evening I greet and serve the guests." He knows the kitchen is in good hands. "Nici and I get on incredibly well. It is wonderful to be able to trust him. He is honest and also criticizes me. If someone just tells you how great you are, you can't develop." The dual role appeals to this Winterthur native. "The great thing about our job is that we can give guests memories. And the word "host" says it all. I am extremely happy to give, because I receive a lot in return."
At the "Trübli", not only the food plays a major role, but also the grapes, or rather the wine. "We focus on German wines, which is unique in Switzerland." The "Trübli" might even be called the "German wine embassy". "Wines from Germany are still overshadowed by French and Italian wines. They are world class but are not yet renowned. I am an absolute fan of Riesling, for example. The spectrum of aromas, the emotions! We would like to get this message out to the world." When Alex Bindig is in the kitchen, his actions are considered and deliberate. The mise en place is that of a perfectionist. The sorbet dumplings for dessert have to be perfect. When Bindig talks about his profession – or his vocation – it literally bubbles out of him. "I love food, I love wine. That's my DNA. I live it with every fibre of my body."
Text: Kathia Baltisberger, Photos: Olivia Pulver, Date: 05.07.2024
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