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The chef the guests trust
Albeli rather than loup de mer, amazing vegetable dishes: Fabian Fuchs is honing his style at EquiTable, St. Meinrad. The guests trust him. GaultMillau does too. 16 points!
Zurich has more famous chefs. But only a few better ones: Fabian Fuchs is beholden to 250 small-scale shareholders and undertakes to cook using regional products that are as “fair” as possible. He found his partners within a very short time. He relies on state-of-the-art technology when working together with them: he uses an app to check how his carrots and cucumbers are growing at Stefan Brunner's farm in the Bernese Three Lakes region.
It's actually quite amazing that Fuchs cooks so well: The “Equitable” kitchen is very small. Just two chefs work here, alongside one dishwasher. Limited space and high demands make it necessary to set priorities.
“My restaurant is only open in the evenings, and there’s only one menu,” says Fabian. The exception proves the rule: If someone doesn’t like something or has a food intolerance, they are given an alternative. And twice a month at EquiTable there’s an impressive lunch: seven different kinds of tomato, coconut ceviche, watermelon granité, neck of veal in jus.
The GaultMillau testers noted that “The longer the evening, the better the performance. The spring-forest combination of rabbit, morels, peas and pea beurre blanc was harmonious, the hearty dish of confit egg yolk, cedar nuts, freekeh, Swiss chard and mountain herb foam, though unconventional, was very good.”
The longer the evening, the better the performance.
Text: Urs Heller, photos: Lucian Hunziker, header image: EquiTable
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