The catering industry in Lucerne has evolved tremendously in recent years. In addition to traditional institutions, there are also young, unconventional restaurant concepts that reflect the spirit of the times. One of these is the «Drei Könige» in the district of Bruch. Thomas Bischof has been the head chef here for three years and has continually enhanced its cuisine. GaultMillau listed this friendly restaurant in its «Pop» section for a long time. Now it is in the main guide and has been awarded 13 points. The 41-year-old Austrian is pleased with this accolade, even though he had no such aspirations. «We didn't expect that at all. On the Monday in question, we looked up what was going on in Lucerne and suddenly the «Drei Könige» appeared on the list,» says Bischof.
The dishes that Bischof prepares are perfect for a grim autumn day. He serves porcini mushroom confit, accompanied by a garlic cream, pumpernickel crumble and chive oil. The egg yolk in Parmesan foam with kale and truffles is also a real feel-good dish that is best eaten with a spoon. Thomas Bischof learnt his craft in Austria, more precisely in Upper Austria, near the German border. In his family, good, traditional cooking was important. «Like all Austrians, on Sunday, you go to the pub and on the other days you cook fresh food.»
After a trial placement as a chef, he made up his mind: cooking was his calling. He completed his apprenticeship as a chef and restaurateur in a traditional inn. «We must have sent out 600 to 800 meals every day.» At a time when Bischof did rotating placements, he cooked at the Stanglwirt, spent a season in Ischgl and another in Davos. In 2006, he moved to Lucerne and somehow the city never let him go. «Even when I worked in Zurich or Engelberg, I always lived in Lucerne. The city is just so beautiful,» he enthuses.
Three years ago, he came to the «Drei Könige» by chance. «I was helping Moritz Stiefel out in the Hopfenkranz kitchen. Stefan Kaufmann, the host here at the «Drei Könige», was eating alone there and looking for a new chef.» The chef at the time, Thomas Pollet, had just left the «Drei Könige» to set up independently with the Magdi restaurant. One thing led to another and Thomas Bischof took over the kitchen. «I like the friendly atmosphere. It's cosy, the cooking is accessible to everyone and yet we have free rein.» Thomas most likes to get creative with the set menu. Also known as «La Grande Bouffe». That's six courses plus the aperitif. Sometimes he selects dishes from the menu and sometimes he goes where his mood takes him.
All the dishes that Thomas Bischof conjures up are very «instagrammable». But the chef is not interested in that. «I don't have Instagram. I much prefer to find inspiration when travelling and in restaurants. And you can also pick up current trends in other places,» says Bischof.
I don't have Instagram. I much prefer to find inspiration when travelling and in restaurants. And you can also pick up current trends in other places
The origin of his products is much more important to him. Thomas Bischof and his team mainly work with local producers. And there are quite a few of them. «We are currently serving a dish with char from Römerswil. Spielhofer Fisch AG has been breeding fish in the Seetal valley for over 40 years. Bischof serves them with homemade sauerkraut on a Reuss mussel beurre blanc. His sous-chef Lenny Hartmann dives into the Reuss every Monday and fishes the small mussels out of the muddy Reuss riverbed. The water may be rather chilly at the moment, but that doesn't bother the young chef. «The quality of the mussels is even better now, in the cold season,» says Lenny.
In autumn, hunting also plays a major role for the «Drei Könige». Thomas Bischof gets his game from a hunter in Fricktal. «Our current special is a venison fillet with stuffing, wrapped in bacon. It's served with parsnip puree and Brussels sprouts. When Thomas serves pork, chicken or beef, he calls on Cyrill Süess from Ballwil. «I simply like these products, they are regional and sustainably produced,» says Bischof. The «Drei Könige» is by no means doctrinaire. «We always have oysters from Brittany on the menu too. They are simply part of it.»
Text: Kathia Baltisberger, Photos: Olivia Pulver, Date: 27.11.2023
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