Carlos Navarro: I never take the easy path

Carlos Navarro stands in the kitchen of the Rechberg 1837 restaurant, peeling parsnips. Concentrated and experienced. "I still find the simple things, like prepping, the best. I almost enter a meditative state," says Navarro. Together with brothers Alexander and Raphael Guggenbühl, Navarro has established "Rechberg" as a fixed feature on Zurich’s culinary scene over the past nine years. And with a concept that, at first glance, doesn't allow for much flexibility. Only products that were available in Zurich in 1837 – the year in which the historic building was constructed – make it onto the plate. Industrially processed food? No way.

Limitation breeds creativity

The founders of Rechberg did not choose this concept for marketing reasons. Nor was it because in recent years it has simply become fashionable to focus on regional products. This is down to a profound engagement with food and a deliberate return to a time before the industrial revolution, before monocultures and processing dominated agriculture. This excludes products such as coffee, chocolate, and other imported products. "What for others is a limitation is the framework we have defined for ourselves – and the menu practically writes itself."

That's obviously an understatement. The season and the farmers' offerings may dictate the products, but turning them into tasty dishes requires talent and creativity. Navarro creates a tartare from dried peas with pickled red Tropea onions and lardo. At "Rechberg", only whole animals are used. For instance, a pig from the Reinau farm – half Duroc, half domestic pig. The lardo for the dish is house-made. "You just need to salt the meat and leave it for a very long time," explains Navarro. Sourdough bread, served as a separate course in the menu, is emblematic of "Rechberg." For the bread, Navarro uses Aszita wheat, an old Pro Specie Rara variety. The sourdough, named Willi, has been around as long as the "Rechberg". It is served with fresh butter and a portion of buttermilk for each guest – the acidity opens up the palate for everything that follows. The commitment is rewarded by GaultMillau with 15 points.

Carlos Navarro inherited a flair for cuisine from his family. His father, Tony Navarro, ran the "Turm" in Zurich's Niederdorf district for about 30 years. "I always thought what my father did was so cool. But I didn't learn to cook from him. He always said: ‘I'm a landlord, not a chef!’ " Navarro learnt his craft at "Wirtschaft zur Höhe" in Zollikon, where culinary icon Daniel Humm also worked. Subsequently, he worked at the Dolder, at "Mesa" with Marcus G. Lindner, and at the catering company Franzoli. The most important lesson he learned during his apprenticeship and travels came from his then-boss Nils Mager at the Dolder. "He said to me: ‘In the kitchen, you can always choose the easy way or the more difficult way. The strict path takes you further and eventually pays off.’ I still carry that within me and often say: Let's do that again, and this time let's do it right. I never really take the easy way."

Cooking is food for the psyche

The Rechberg team not only runs the establishment near the central library but also “Kultur Lokal Rank” in Niederdorf, “Courtside Belvoir” – a public tennis club restaurant in Wollishofen – as well as the two shops “Weber Comestible” in Zollikerberg and “Binz” near Maur. To ensure everything runs smoothly, Navarro has had a head chef at Rechberg for about three years who is responsible for daily operations. Andreas Bolliger previously worked at the Dolder and was most recently with Sven Wassmer in Bad Ragaz, where a nature-oriented cuisine is also celebrated. "I miss the mountains, but you can also find wild herbs on Üetliberg – you just need to know where," says Bolliger, who regularly searches for ingredients in nature.

With Andi Bolliger in charge, Navarro has more time for conceptual and strategic matters. Yet, even though Navarro's job now resembles that of a managing director more than that of a chef, he still loves the profession – and so he ends up peeling the aforementioned parsnips. They are actually intended for a dessert created by Andi. The root vegetables are turned into ice cream, puree, cubes, and chips. Carlos Navarro arranges all the components on flamed meringue and sprinkles some lupin powder over it. "Despite all my other duties, I still cook every day. When I'm feeling down, I switch off the phone and cook alone. That's food for my psyche."

Despite all my other duties, I still cook every day. When I'm feeling down, I switch off the phone and cook alone. That's food for my psyche.
Carlos Navarro

Text: Kathia Baltisberger, Photos: Olivia Pulver, Date: 17.04.2025